
At night, the Southern City Square located behind the King's Palace-is
always full of people looking for affordable amusement. The flickering
lamps of odong-odong driven around the square adds
to the merry.
Javanese traditional architecture holds a principle known as
Catur Gatra Tunggal (
catur: Javanese for "four";
gatra: Javanese for "element";
tunggal:
Javanese for "single/integrated"), which means "four elements in one
single integrity". The principle is manifested in the architecture of
Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat King's Palace, which comprises a palace, a
mosque, a city square, and a traditional market. Each of the place
functions as the center of authority, prayer and worship, social
activities, and economic activities respectively. Yogyakarta has two
city squares one located in front of the palace, known as Alun-Alun
Utara (
alun-alun lor/Northern City Square), while the other one is located behind the palace and is known as Alun-Alun Selatan (
alun-alun kidul/Southern
City Square).
The King's Palace is itself situated at a spot along the
imaginary line connecting Mount Merapi, the King's Palace, and
Parangtritis Beach.
The backyard of the king's palace is a place full of
stories. Two of the folklores most identified with the Southern city
square is its establishment; the city square was built to make the back
side of the palace looks a lot like the front yard so that it doesn't
stand backing the Southern Sea which is believed to be guarded by the
Queen of the Southern Sea, who is said to have a mystical connection
with the King of Mataram.

The second story is the myth of walking pass
the twin banyan trees planted on the city square, with eyes blindfolded.
The game is known as
masangin, which stands for "masuk dua beringin" (entering two banyan trees).
The rule of the game is very simple; we would only need to
be blindfolded then walk straight about 20 m from the front of Sasono
Hinggil (Javanese words, literally translated as Higher Place/Ground)
and pass through between the
ringin kurung (two banyan trees
planted on the center of the city square).
That's all. But as you come
to see, it is not as easy as it seems. Many people have tried to walk
straight, but in fact they happened to take the wrong direction, turning
their path far from the destination. Certainly, walking with eyes
blindfolded is far harder than with eyes open and objects visible. In
broader understanding, the game reflects a message that we have to work
hard and keep our heart pure to achieve our destination.
Masangin originated from a ritual known as
topo bisu (silent asceticism)
mubeng beteng
(around the fort) on 1 Suro eve, which would be completed by walking
pass the ringin kurung. It is believed that the two banyan trees hold a
mythical
rajah (traditional tattoo) which functions to keep the
King's Palace off any perils. It is also believed that only those having
pure hearts and not bearing evil intentions can walk pass the banyan
trees. To try the game, we can rent a blindfold for Rp 5,000. Apart from
the myth, the game has been the Southern city square's icon which gives
financial benefits for the sellers around the city square.
There are many other things we can do in the Southern city
square. Formerly used by the kingdom's army to work out, the place has
now transformed into a public space flocked by visitors; people of all
communities and ages are gathering here. In the evening, started at
about 5 pm, parents take their children to play around, running all the
way chasing the flying bubbles from liquid soap blown by the sellers, or
shouting loudly as if calling out the various kites above the sky.
Quite at the pavement, numerous sellers are getting ready and spreading
out their mats. Later at night, the atmosphere starts to change; the
young children have gone home, and it's time for the teenagers to spend
their night over at the city square. The darker the night, the higher
the crowd. Tandem bicycles and lighted
odong-odong become the favorite objects. We can drive around the city square on tandem bicycle for Rp 15,000, or by renting
odong-odong for Rp 30,000 which can accommodate up to six persons. While doing sport by riding on the bicycle or
odong-odong, we can also feel another sensation while riding on it cross the crowded street
Tired of playing, we can then take a break and sit relaxed
on the mats while ordering snacks. We suggest you order roasted corns in
various flavor options along with
wedang ronde which offers the taste of warm ginger. Need more? Just order toasted bread and
wedang bajigur.
Wedang ronde and
bajigur,
popular beverages in Yogyakarta, are just perfect to enjoy around the
area which formerly had been the heart of Mataram Kingdom. The Southern
city square is not a quiet place where you can find tranquility, but its
cheerful aura will definitely amuse you. If you come around at the
second week in month, you will be able to watch a shadow puppet
performance held at Sasono Hinggil Dwi Abad. However, you will need to
get all prepared since the show is held all night long. Wanna give it a
try?
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